關(guān)于可持續(xù)時(shí)尚，社會(huì)各界一直有很多不同的聲音。有人認(rèn)為，購(gòu)買打著環(huán)保旗號(hào)的品牌服裝有助于保護(hù)環(huán)境，還有人認(rèn)為，購(gòu)買奢侈品牌可以防止工人被壓榨。這些都是廣為流傳的誤解。真相到底是什么呢？

MYTH: Buying from "eco-conscious" or "sustainable" brands is the best way to reduce your fashion footprint
誤解一：從“具有環(huán)保意識(shí)”或“可持續(xù)”的品牌購(gòu)買服裝是減少時(shí)尚碳足跡的最佳方式

TRUTH: The best way to reduce your fashion footprint is to buy fewer things. Get the most out of your current wardrobe by mending or altering old garments, restyling tired pieces and trading items with friends or through clothing swaps (post-pandemic). If you must buy a new item, try to find it second-hand. Some companies even offer repair programs, like Patagonia's "Worn Wear," or help to resell worn items. Researching sustainable brands is helpful, but buying something new should be the last option, not the first.

事實(shí)：減少時(shí)尚碳足跡的最佳方式就是少買衣服。最大化地使用你現(xiàn)有的衣服，你可以修補(bǔ)或改造舊衣服，把穿膩了的衣服重新設(shè)計(jì)一下，和朋友換穿衣服，或者到網(wǎng)上進(jìn)行衣物互換（當(dāng)然是在疫情過(guò)后）。如果必須買新衣服，試著在二手店找找有沒(méi)有合適的。一些公司甚至提供修補(bǔ)衣服的項(xiàng)目，比如巴塔哥尼亞品牌的“破舊衣服”項(xiàng)目，或者幫助顧客賣掉穿過(guò)的衣服。對(duì)可持續(xù)品牌進(jìn)行調(diào)研可以有所幫助，但是購(gòu)買新衣服應(yīng)該是最后的選擇，而不是首選。

MYTH: Luxury fashion is more sustainable than fast fashion
誤解二：奢侈服裝比快時(shí)尚服裝更可持續(xù)

TRUTH: Spending money on luxury fashion does not guarantee sustainability. Some fashion houses, including Burberry, have staged "carbon-neutral" shows, and Gucci claims its operations are now entirely carbon-neutral. Stella McCartney has been working towards more greener practices for years and is one in a number of fashion brands to sign a UN charter for climate action, pledging to reduce collective carbon emissions by 30% by 2030. But the luxury fashion industry still has work to do. A report released earlier this year by Ordre, which specializes in online showrooms, reveals how unsustainable fashion weeks really are, for example. By measuring the carbon footprint of fashion buyers from 2,697 retail brands and 5,096 ready-to-wear designers attending international fashion weeks over a 12-month period, the report found that the 241,000 tonnes of CO2 (or equivalent greenhouse gases) emitted was the same as that of a small country, or enough energy to keep the lights on in 42,000 homes in a year.

事實(shí)：花錢購(gòu)買奢侈服裝并不能保證可持續(xù)。包括巴寶莉在內(nèi)的一些時(shí)尚品牌舉行了“碳中和”時(shí)裝秀，古馳品牌則聲稱自己的產(chǎn)業(yè)運(yùn)作現(xiàn)在完全是碳中和的。斯特拉·麥卡特尼品牌多年來(lái)一直致力于更環(huán)保的行為，也是簽署聯(lián)合國(guó)《時(shí)尚業(yè)氣候行動(dòng)憲章》的多個(gè)時(shí)尚品牌之一，承諾到2030年將碳排放總量減少30%。但是奢侈時(shí)尚行業(yè)做的還不夠。今年早些時(shí)候奢侈品展示網(wǎng)站Ordre發(fā)布的一份報(bào)告揭示了奢侈品時(shí)尚業(yè)的一些真相，比如時(shí)裝周對(duì)環(huán)境的破壞有多大。通過(guò)測(cè)量12個(gè)月內(nèi)參加國(guó)際時(shí)裝周的來(lái)自2697個(gè)零售品牌的時(shí)裝買家和5096名成衣設(shè)計(jì)師產(chǎn)生的碳足跡，該報(bào)告發(fā)現(xiàn)，時(shí)裝周產(chǎn)生的24.1萬(wàn)噸二氧化碳（或等量的溫室氣體）相當(dāng)于一個(gè)小國(guó)的碳排放量，這些能源足以為4.2萬(wàn)戶家庭提供一年的照明。

MYTH: The more expensive the garment, the less likely workers have been exploited
誤解三：衣服越貴，工人受剝削的可能性越小

TRUTH: Many mid-priced and premium labels actually produce in the same factories as discount and fast fashion brands. This means that everything from workers' rights to the conditions in which they work in, can be exploitative, regardless of price point. What's more, the price of a garment does not guarantee that workers were fairly paid, because the cost of labor only makes up a small fraction of total production costs.

事實(shí)：許多中高檔品牌的服裝實(shí)際上跟折扣店和快時(shí)尚品牌用同樣的工廠生產(chǎn)。這意味著從工人權(quán)利到工作條件等方方面面都可能存在剝削，與價(jià)位無(wú)關(guān)。此外，衣服的高價(jià)不能保證員工能得到公平的報(bào)酬，因?yàn)閯趧?dòng)力成本只占生產(chǎn)總成本的一小部分。

MYTH: Donating old clothes is a sustainable way to clean out your closet
誤解四：捐舊衣服是清理衣柜的可持續(xù)方式

TRUTH: While charities and thrift stores do give away or sell a portion of the clothes they receive, your donated clothes are likely to end up being shipped overseas to resale markets in developing countries, which can negatively impact their local industries, or in a landfill. Only 10% of clothing given to thrift stores is actually sold. The US alone ships a billion pounds of used clothing per year to other countries. Africa receives 70% of global secondhand clothes.

事實(shí)：盡管慈善機(jī)構(gòu)和二手店確實(shí)會(huì)捐掉或賣掉它們獲得的一部分舊衣服，但是你捐的衣服很可能最終會(huì)被運(yùn)到發(fā)展中國(guó)家的轉(zhuǎn)售市場(chǎng)或者進(jìn)入垃圾填埋場(chǎng)，而運(yùn)到發(fā)展中國(guó)家的舊衣服會(huì)給他們的當(dāng)?shù)禺a(chǎn)業(yè)帶來(lái)負(fù)面影響。捐給二手店的衣服只有10%真的被賣掉了。光是美國(guó)每年就會(huì)運(yùn)10億磅（約合45萬(wàn)噸）舊衣服到其他國(guó)家。非洲接收了全球70%的二手衣服。

A 2016 research project, entitled "Dead White Man's Clothes," found that in Kantamanto, the largest secondhand market in Ghana, 15 million items are unloaded each week. The team behind the report concluded that 40% of the clothing in each bale becomes waste, dumped into already overflowing landfills, the Gulf of Guinea, or burned in Accra's slums.

2016年一項(xiàng)名為“已故白人衣服”的研究項(xiàng)目發(fā)現(xiàn)，在加納最大的二手市場(chǎng)坎塔曼托市場(chǎng)，每周有1500萬(wàn)件衣物會(huì)運(yùn)到那里。研究團(tuán)隊(duì)在報(bào)告中總結(jié)道，每批衣服的40%會(huì)成為垃圾，被傾倒入本已滿溢的垃圾填埋場(chǎng)、幾內(nèi)亞灣，或在阿克拉貧民窟焚燒。

英文來(lái)源：美國(guó)有線電視新聞網(wǎng)

翻譯&編輯：丹妮