中國網(wǎng)站品牌欄目（頻道）
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With his Ulster, the literary Holmes wore a cravat. Rathbone’s colorful silk scarves look almost feminine today, but they harmonized with 1930s fashions (think Fred Astaire). In Guy Ritchie’s steampunk-inspired Sherlock Holmes movies, Robert Downey Jr.’s flashy ascots are the only recognizably Holmesian aspect of his costumes, even if they seem more appropriate to circa 2008 Brooklyn than Victorian London. Cumberbatch’s blue-gray scarf functions as an extension of his coat (and eyes). It was Paget who introduced the deerstalker, mentioned nowhere in Conan Doyle’s writings. (Holmes never uttered “Elementary, my dear Watson!” either.) As its name implies, it was a hunting garment, suitable for outdoor pursuits. Paget’s Holmes wore it in the country, never in London. However, Rathbone and subsequent Holmeses wore it everywhere, including indoors. As a trope, the deerstalker improved upon the generic “ear-flapped travelling-cap” Conan Doyle gave his hero. “Holmes never hunted,” exhibition curator Alex Werner reminds us. “But Conan Doyle used the metaphor of hunting to express Holmes’s pursuit of the truth.” Though the deerstalker is no longer a staple of the English gentleman’s wardrobe, it makes an ironic appearance in Sherlock; Cumberbatch impulsively dons one to hide his face from the paparazzi, only to have it become his trademark. (His humiliating nom de tabloid is “Hat Detective.”) Downey, however, wore a fedora, in keeping with his Brooklyn hipster interpretation. |
除Ulster款大衣外，書中的福爾摩斯還帶著圍巾。雷斯伯恩版福爾摩斯的彩色絲綢圍巾在今天看來顯得近乎女性化，但它與19世紀30年代的時尚十分協(xié)調。在蓋·里奇（Guy Ritchie）的蒸汽朋克電影《夏洛克·福爾摩斯》里，小羅伯特·唐尼（Robert Downey Jr）版福爾摩斯浮華的領巾是該角色唯一顯示福爾摩斯身份的裝束，盡管這似乎更適合2008年的布魯克林，而非維多利亞時代的倫敦?！熬砀！钡乃{灰色圍巾則有襯托大衣和眼睛的效果。 福爾摩斯的獵鹿帽是佩吉特在插畫中首創(chuàng)的，柯南·道爾在書中從未提及，原著中只有“有耳遮的旅行帽”（“ear-flapped travelling cap”）的字句。顧名思義，獵鹿帽屬于狩獵裝束，適合戶外活動。佩吉特畫中的福爾摩斯只在鄉(xiāng)村戴獵鹿帽，從不在倫敦戴。而在雷斯伯恩和之后的各個版本中，福爾摩斯任何時候都戴著獵鹿帽，包括在室內。展覽策展人亞歷克斯·沃納（Alex Werner）提醒參觀者：“福爾摩斯從不狩獵，柯南·道爾只是借狩獵這一隱喻來體現(xiàn)福爾摩斯對真相的追求。”盡管獵鹿帽不再是英國紳士衣柜里的必備品，但它已是福爾摩斯的標志特征。“卷?！睘榱硕惚芄纷嘘牰魃汐C鹿帽遮臉，結果使獵鹿帽變成了他的標志（他還被戲稱為“帽子偵探”）。唐尼戴的淺頂軟呢帽，則保持著他的布魯克林風格。
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