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His gentlemanly dress often hid what Conan Doyle called Holmes’s “Bohemian soul.” The melancholy, violin-playing, cocaine-injecting insomniac was betrayed by his off-duty clothes, specifically his collection of dressing gowns, which ranged from “mouse-colored” to a dandyish purple. The camel version on display at the Museum of London is the most subdued of several Cumberbatch wears in the BBC series. Holmes was well aware of the power of clothing to reveal as well as transform. Anthropometry—a legitimate scientific discipline in the Victorian era—held that physical characteristics corresponded to character traits; Holmes’s high forehead indicated the mighty brain behind it. Clothing, by extension, could do the same—a perfectly reasonable assumption at a time when read-to-wear was in its infancy and those who could afford to still had their clothes custom-made. “Dress is a main character in the stories when it comes to providing clues for Holmes,” Long says. No scuffed shoe or scratched pocketwatch escaped his notice; the smallest sartorial detail could be the key to solving a case. He once deduced an entire psychological history from the “very ordinary black hat” that led him to the famous blue carbuncle. |
在福爾摩斯的紳士范穿著之下，隱藏著柯南·道爾所說(shuō)的“不羈的靈魂”（ “Bohemian soul”）。憂郁的小提琴演奏，注射可卡因引起的失眠癥，都從他日常的穿著中顯現(xiàn)出來(lái)，尤其是他的睡袍。福爾摩斯的睡袍很多，從灰褐色到新潮的紫色，倫敦博物館目前展出的駝色睡袍是《神探夏洛克》里“卷?！彼┑念伾顬轺龅囊豢?。 福爾摩斯深知服裝的力量。在維多利亞時(shí)代，人體測(cè)量學(xué)（Anthropometry）是一個(gè)合法的學(xué)科。根據(jù)人體測(cè)量學(xué)，物理特征往往反映人的性格特點(diǎn)，比如福爾摩斯的高前額暗示了其強(qiáng)大的大腦，服裝也是一樣。時(shí)尚策展人朗說(shuō)：“在福爾摩斯思考辦案線索時(shí)，服裝扮演了重要角色?！辈还苁悄p的鞋子，還是有劃痕的懷表，都逃不開福爾摩斯的火眼，衣服上最細(xì)微的細(xì)節(jié)都可能是破案的關(guān)鍵。福爾摩斯曾僅靠一只“非常普通的黑色帽子”就推導(dǎo)出完整的作案心理過(guò)程，成就了著名的“藍(lán)寶石案”。 |
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